GRZS tips

28. 8. 2020

Avtor: Milan Šenk, GRS Jezersko

Safely on ferratas - tips from practice

On the Internet or in the literature, you will find many definitions and descriptions of what a ferrata is, which are more or less the same: "A ferrata is a climbing route or route in mountains or in rock walls protected by steel cables".

On the Internet or in the literature, you will find many definitions and descriptions of what a ferrata is, which are more or less the same: “A ferrata is a climbing route or route in mountains or rock walls protected by steel cables”.

Ferrates are divided into so-called sport ferrates, which are usually shorter and end at the edge of the wall or in easier terrain, and challenging protected climbing routes that usually lead us to the top of the mountains.

We will focus on sports ferratas, i.e. climbing routes and not routes. The steel line shows us the direction.

As a rule, each sport via ferrata has a sketch of difficulty, height or length, climbing time and recommendations. We can say that there are quite a few similarities with shorter mountaineering routes.

Some practical knowledge that can be useful for safe climbing:

Before we go to the sports via ferrata, we read the description, the difficulty and look at the video or pictures. We can find everything online. Information from friends who already know via ferrata is very useful. First, we choose the easier ferratas, and then we start with the more difficult ones.

Rules of movement

Alpinist skills are also important for mastering via ferratas, of which the rule of three points of support can be sensibly applied when climbing via ferratas.

The first option: one hand holds the wire, the other looks for a grip or grabs the wire. Both legs stand.

Another option: two hands holding a steel wire or one steel wire, the other grip, one-foot standing, the other looking for a stop.

Let this rule increase your safety when climbing or descending.

Technical equipment

Technical equipment is useful in many ways, but we cannot carry everything with us.

The minimum necessary equipment for sport via ferratas is helmet, belt, self-protection kit, gloves, loop for resting - a strap approx. 30 to 60 cm with a hook on a nut or self-locking and a first aid kit. We put on our equipment before entering the via ferrata, first the helmet!

Footwear

Everyone chooses footwear that they know how to use when climbing or walking in the hills: hiking shoes - high, low, trail shoes, climbing shoes… We know from experience that critical places are usually climbable due to friction, so footwear with a softer and flexible sole serves well, and clings well to rocks. Before entering the via ferrata, tighten the shoe laces properly!

The legs are very important for saving energy. This German proverb applies here, which goes something like this: “A donkey looks and then steps, a horse steps and looks at the same time”. A donkey’s caution and sophistication are shown!

Two more animals are interesting because of their movement: the cat (easy joint movements) and the chamois (balance dance). Observe these animals and imitate them.

Advancement

When progressing, the process of fastening the carabiners over the wedge is very important. We can lose a lot of energy or even get into a position where we can’t fasten the ropes. In such cases, we use a loop for resting, hang on it, rest and then loop both hooks of the set over the hook for resting. We will learn the skill of warping at home with a large number of repetitions. The correct movement and clamping of the hooks on the steel wire can be found online or at the course.

Safety

When using knowledge and practical experience, climbing in sports ferratas is relatively safe.

Despite everything, serious problems can occur weakness, fear, panic, change of weather… Climbing outside the area of the cable is extremely dangerous! Of course, minor or serious injuries can also occur in the event of a fall. Our fellow climbers can help us a lot if they have the appropriate skills and equipment. If we cannot save ourselves, call GRS for help - call 112.

Conclusion

For climbing in sports ferratas, we need equipment, knowledge, physical and mental abilities, and probably more, to climb safely and enjoy our adventures.

I hope you’ve found something in the write-up that will be useful to you when you’re holding onto a tightrope and need to take the next step.

By the way, I should mention that there are enough courses where you can acquire basic knowledge and test yourself practically. GRS Jezersko also decided to prepare training both for beginners and for those who would like to learn something about alpinism.

On the GRZS website, you can find recommendations for rescue from sports ferratas, which are intended for mountain rescuers.

 
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We thank our long-time supporters who help us on our way.

Zavarovalnica Triglav Elan Dacia
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